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Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Superstar!

Fun incident today: A hugely famous Korean pop singer toured the school today with a camera crew. He did an tv interview in my practical class of 7 so we were all on Korean tv. We just stood there smiling and trying to show off our quiches. One of the other student's quiche near the interview was zoomed in on by the camera and is now a superstar! I am hoping more celebs stop by : )

Soldes and Bacon + Butter = Pure Delight

Today the soldes started! Soldes are the bi-annual, state-regulated sales in France. The sales start around 30% off and then progress to 50% and then 75% as the weeks go by.

After school today, I forgot my camera in the locker room at school so I doubled back to get it and walked past a shoe store. I went in because the every clothing and shoe store has huge signs in the window about how much their discounts are. I ended up buying a pair of gladiator sandals because it is so hot every day in Paris that you need to wear sandals of some sort. Yes, in Paris people are wearing gladiators just like on the West Coast, but definitely not as embellished as in San Francisco, just classic and simple.

With new shoes in hand and per usual, also carrying home my work from today's practical, the delish Quiche Lorraine. This quiche is prepared in such a way that my choice to come to france to study was positively reinforced. In the recipe, lardons are fried in butter. Finally, a cuisine and culture that encourages the lovely marriage of two favorite ingredients, butter & bacon, which I feel are unreasonably looked down upon in California. Oh, you deprived every day salad eaters!

Quiche Lorraine



Bacon!

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Excess

Yesterday we made Tarte aux pommes, a classic apple tart. My tart came out very nice but we didn't have the glaze in our practical room so it's not as pretty as it could have been. Oh well, add it to the growing pile of sweets in my kitchen. The tart is now friends with the two dozen or more diamond cookies. Luckily, I do not have another practical until tomorrow and I will be giving the tart to one of my friends to eat.

Many people give their food to staff at school, some find people in need on the street and some just throw it in the trash which is such a waste but before you judge, some students come from an hour away on the metro. It could be awkward riding the metro with hot food, your school bags, etc. The most awkward take-home dish was the first one, the rustic vegetable soup. It was so hot when we finished and walking a mile home with it was super fun. I was carrying this hot soup that keeps sloshing around and people were blatantly (more than usual) staring at me and the strange concoction that I was carrying. However, it was worth it to have for dinner at home that night (and the next).

Tarte aux pommes

Saturday, June 21, 2008

No wine after 9?

Last night a group of LCB students went out to celebrate completing our first week. We decided to do as everyone else in Paris on a nice night and hang out along the Seine. It was gorgeous. Everyone lounging along the river on the bridges or just along the quai. The bridge we were on was packed with people sitting down on the bridge drinking wine (some with a full picnic--jealously!) just hanging out. Great scene.

The packed bridge.


Unfortunately, my roommate and I arrived sans wine so we had to venture out and find a store to buy some. Long story short: We walked around for an hour through various neighborhoods, had an interesting conversation with some cops to find out where we could buy wine at this time of night, until we found a Daily Monop that was open. We excitedly ran into the store and went directly to the wine section. There was a huge sign with the section chained off. The sign said that alcohol sales were prohibited after 9pm in that area! We were so mad and frustrated. We were told we could get on the Metro and travel for 10 minutes to Republique to buy wine even though all the bars in the area were selling. We bought water and a snack and left.

Finally, 5 minutes away from where we started, we found a tabac that let us buy one of their bottles of white wine. We went back to the bridge which was still packed and hung out and watched the glitter of the tour effiel light show. Then, off to bars, getting lost and finally getting home.

First Week Complete!

As expected, Le Grand Diplome is very challenging. On most days, there will be a mixture of demonstrations and practicals from 8:30am - 6pm, composed of 3 classes a day. The days are long and tiring. I am glad to have arrived early in Paris to completely get over jet lag as I would have been hurting with the intense schedule if I hadn't.

Punctuality is extremely important at Le Cordon Bleu. Classes start at 1/2 past and roll call begins at 25 after. The rules state you can be up to 15 minutes late but it is at the discretion of the Chef as to whether he (no female Chefs) will allow a student to be even one minute late. So far, no Chefs allow the 15 minute rule and once roll is called, the doors to the room are locked from the inside.

In my first exciting week, I had several demos and 1 patisserie practical and 3 cuisine practicals. The demos are great because the Chef demonstrates 3-4 recipes, one of which you prepare in your practical. Because of this you are learning so much each day. The Chef works on all 3 recipes at once so superior notetaking skills is a must. You are encouraged to stop the Chef while he is demonstrating to ask questions. It is assumed if you do not ask questions that you already know the recipe or why he is doing something. It is a truly fantastic opportunity to be able to ask all the questions I've always wondered about directly to a classically trained Chef. There is even an MOF Chef on staff at LCB who teaches patisserie. To be clear, MOF is the highest distinction you can receive ever as a Chef.

The practicals are intense. The whole time you are working fast and furious to prepare to start the recipe -- getting all your knives out, preparing your workspace, gathering the correct utensils. You can't wear a watch for sanitary reasons so keeping track of time is challenging. After you are prepared to start, it's just a frenzy of activity in the kitchen. While you are working on your recipe, the Chef is coming around checking on everyone's work ensuring you are working correctly and he will stop and demonstrate if necessary.

Additionally, while you are working the Chef may stop the students work to demonstrate another skill which is cool because it's more personal learning. After the mad dash to finish, you look down at your beautiful finished work and realize you've done so much work for so little food. I have always had tremendous respect for where my food comes from and who prepares the food. This week in particular, I salute fish mongers everywhere. In our second cuisine practical, we filleted whole whiting fish. It was great because now I can practice with the fresh fish at the market, but it is so difficult to do correctly. My fish came out very nicely. Unfortunately, I do not have a photo of my finished dish.

Once you complete your dish, the Chef will check your plate and then taste your work. This is the height of the ~2 hours of work. This climatic event last approximately 30 seconds as you quietly pray you have prepared the dish in the best manner possible. After the taste, Chef will give you the critique and then as quickly as you can you begin cleaning up your workspace to leave your area clean and ready for the next class.

It all happens so fast and this coming week the grading begins...

The following photos are reproductions of two of the dishes. I replated at home which is not as nice as when done at school. I will try to bring my camera to practicals.

Poached chicken with supreme sauce and rice au gras.


This dish is very delicious. The sauce and the rice are my favorite part. Yes, there is butter in the sauce but not that much.

Diamond cookies


Super tasty shortbread. Difficult to make a perfect round. Infinite variation can be made off of the recipe. We have ton of these at home because both my roommate and I are in patisserie so double of all sweets!

Monday, June 16, 2008

My first day!

Woohoo! I just completed my first day at LCB! It was orientation for the first day. First, we had a lecture on the rules and general information about the school. Then, all the students introduced ourselves by name and said what country we were from and what we will be studying. Most people are here for patisserie. Only four other people (out of about 50) are in the Le Grand Diplome programe with me, so I feel glad to be in it.

It's pretty cool to have a diverse class. A handful of people from the states, a few from Saudi Arabia, Canada, Mexico, Philippines, Taiwan, Ireland and just one person from France. Of course I chickened out at the last minute and introduced myself in anglais (bad! but almost everyone did).

Then, we received our knife kit! Oh la la! Way too exciting. We also received our uniform and got settled in our lockers. Finally, we toured the school so we knew where to go. Yay! Of course, since I'm so charming, I made some friends and we are meeting later to scope out a cafe or bar to become regulars since there can be huge gaps in between classes.

Voila! The knife kit I've been waiting for.



Tomorrow: the first day of classes! A full day, 8am - 6:30pm. I start earlier than everyone else because I will be a chef's assistant this week : )

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Protests

With Bush in town, there were a ton of protests in the city. The big one was held on Friday the day he arrived. Youtube has a good footage of it.

As I was walking around on Saturday, I ran into a huge protest filled with all kinds of people. The sound was so loud that I could hear from streets away. Part of the protest was about the extradition from France of Marina Petrella, partially regarding rights of undocumented workers and part for other causes, but I could not see the start of the protest so I am not sure the main reason for the protest.

Protesters for Marina Petrella


LCR, a democratic socialist party


Police trying to direct traffic at a big intersection during the protest.

dubya

Bush was in town for the last few days doing his farewell tour of Europe. There were police everywhere. Parts of the 1st, 8th and the 16th were completely closed off. On Saturday, I was walking on what I thought was a very quiet street along Assembly Nationale when I realized the 20 police minivans on the opposite side of the street from me were each filled with about 8 or so policemen fulled armed in full gear, just sitting quietly in the vans watching me walk up the street, ready to be called away at any moment. Now, this area is always guarded by Republican Guards but this was clearly for another reason. Not a cool feeling to suddenly realize there are hundreds of loaded guns just a few feet away from you and the owners are bored so all eyes are on you. Needless to say I couldn't snap a happy pic of this event so you'll have to imagine.

Here is the closest photo I could get of the scene. The street I was walking up was on the left in the photo right where the green bus is turning.

Jackpot on boulevard des Invalides

When next touring Paris, be sure to walk up boulevard des Invalides near the Rodin garden. Here I found a jackpot of petite cars! Two Minis (one an After 8) and a Fiat. I think the Fiat may be the same one as before but it still counts. Oh, I just saw the new Fiat last night in the 8th. So cool.

One


Two


Three!

Friday, June 13, 2008

Snoop is following me

Posters in the metro stations are larger than life. Snoop is touring here on September 15th. Radiohead is in July. The big Festival Rock en Seine with Rage, The Raconteurs, Kaiser Chiefs and Roots is at the end of August. Love music, love Paris.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Petite cars

This post is for my little sister. We love tiny old cars.

Yesterday: A very sophisticated man in a very tiny car. He gridlocked his car in a intersection along Saint Michel and it became a spectacle watching him try to get out of the mess of cars and people. Funny.


Yesterday: A nice VW spotting on a side street by the Pantheon.


Wed, 6/4: By Ecole Militaire in the 7th.


Wed, 6/4: Along Boulevard des Invalides after a visit to the Rodin gardens. A wagon spotting!



Sat, 5/31: Along the quai by the Eiffel Tower. My first spotting!

Gelato on a hot day

Yesterday was hot. It was 79 degrees with humidity and only a few clouds. A perfect day for my favorite gelato from Gelati d'Alberto on Rue Mouffetard in the 5th. I believe it used to have a different name, but the gelato is the same--delish!



What's special about this gelati? They shape the flavors in to a flower for you to enjoy. Below the petals are mure (blackberry) with caffé inside.

The Madeleine

The Madeleine has been on my must visit list for a while now. In previous trip to Paris, I have not been able to fit it in. I wandered over on Monday to walk around and to try to recall why I was told to go. Once I saw the black and white awning of Fauchon, it was so very, very clear.

La Maison Fauchon


A gourmet dream. The food is art. The pastry, especially the eclairs, which are colorful and tantalizing. Amid the gold walls and beautiful food, I stayed for a lunch of carrot and orange juice and a sandwich of salmon and basil with butter. Lovely.

Fauchon, the patisserie and boulangerie. So black, white, gold and pink.


My lunch. It was delicious. The packaging is excessive, truly fitting to Fauchon.


More luxe food shops. Maille, the mustard company I love.


Hediard, an institution. This is a must for foodies. Everything you could want and more including teas, coffee, confiture, spices, salts, mustard, so much!

Monday, June 9, 2008

It's hard being a Model

Okay, yes they do stand around and are set up to look beautiful and are well paid. However, they do sometimes have to wear silly costumes and continue to put on a pretty face while multiple people are directing them in a language they clearly don't understand as curious crowds form to watch. Plus, it was a little cold yesterday to be wearing a fairy costume...

Photo shoot in Montmartre in the plaza below Sacré-Cœur.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Mixed greens

A quick dinner. Mixed greens with a simple dressing of 3 to 1 extra virgin olive oil and tarragon vinegar with a bit of dijon mustard.

raw sliced zucchini
sliced tomato
a few potatoes
(all of the above from the market the other day)
small handful of haricots verts
two slices of prosciutto
two slices of toast with blue cheese

Simple. Fast. Delicious.

Getting lost

My first sight of school.


(turning the corner of little rue Delhomme, i saw it with my own eyes. everything culminating to that moment. it was alot. i was nervous. i was excited.)

I went to the school last Monday, the 2nd, to run an errand and to see how long it would take to walk there. It took an hour. It was classic. I walked in the opposite direction for a while, made a huge circle and found a Sephora, L'olivier and an Eric Kayser.

I'm getting my bearings by getting lost. I usually have a great sense of direction and can tell which way is north at any time but here not so much. If you go down one street thinking it is running parellel to another, you are most likely wrong and can end up so far from your original intent. But this is life. It took me a long time to get to Paris, thinking I was going down one path for a while but leading to another and another. It took time and I found my way.

Window outside the school.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Le Grand Magasin

Choosing between Montmartre on a cloudy day or a little shopping, I felt called to Opera to take a look inside Le Printemps.

The Opera House



On my way to Le Printemps, I spied Galeries Lafayette, a big department store on boulevard Haussman.




The building is beautiful. Stained glass dome with balconies on each level jutting out.


People were in a shopping frenzy. The ground floor of cosmetics and jewelry was filled with groups trying perfumes, make-up and jewels along with tourists (ahem) busily taking photographs of the dome. To my luck, I found the shoe department and the Mui Mui and Marc Jacobs shoes. Just looking, of course.

What is interesting about the layout of the store is that high end designer brands sit just a few feet away from lower level brands so one second you are looking at 35 euro sandals and then just across the aisle you will find a pair of the most gorgeously detailed nude Alaia flats for 535 euros. Another fun point of interest the floor entirely dedicated to Seduction. Lovely.

Galeries Lafayette was much to absorb and when I left it was sprinkling. Le Printemps will be saved for another day soon.

To market to market

Today is Saturday. It's time to do the weekly shopping at the local marché.

My local market on Avenue de Saxe. Marché Saxe-Breteuil.


Getting bold with my french, below are the treasures I came away with at the market.


Red, red cherries.


Yum. Pommes de terre. Potatoes and onions with spices cooked in a huge cast iron pan. 1 euro 90 cents. Fantastic.


One of many blue cheeses that caught my attention.


Lunch. It is good to be in Paris.


The blue cheese + the pommes de terre. Divine.

Friday, June 6, 2008

Jardins

Parks and gardens are such a treat in a big city. Paris has lots of gorgeous little parks in every arrondissment and good number of very large gardens that I enjoyed yesterday and today. Perfect for reading my new book by Julia Child and Alex Prud'Homme "My Life in France". Parfait.

Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th.

Tennis Courts


Lots of tables and chairs made for playing chess.


Stone statues amidst modern art.


The walk to the Big Head.


The Big Head


View of the Jardin and the Senat building.


Stopping to sit and read.



Rue Mouffetard in the 5th.

On to the next jardin through Rue Mouffetard, I had to get a crepe with sugar and butter. Unfortunately, the place where I had my last crepe in Paris a few years ago was closed down. Delmas was still going strong with a new red awning and the great gelato shop got a new paint job (sorry no photos).


Jardin des Plantes in the 5th.

The jardin and the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution.


Statue of Guy de La Brosse who originally planted this jardin.


The giant geological map of France showing the age of the land by era.


A huge map of France made up up over 1,000 little geological maps showing the composition of the land. You can walk on top of it.


Wallabies! in the jardin.