Hungry in Paris

I have been asked by more than a few friends for restaurant recommendations in Paris. Many of these friends have asked for recommendations that are also not too expensive. Those living in Paris might be chuckling silently to themselves at that last part. Why? Because Paris is inherently expensive. The same plate of pasta in Rome or the states that costs 10 euros will cost you 18 in Paris. Think I am joking? Come to Paris and order a main dish and a drink (be sure to order wine or that Coke you think is cheaper than the wine will be last you order in Paris) and you are easily out 25 euros at a bar or brasserie. I recently went to Robouchon's L'Atelier and had a 30 euro spaghetti as a starter. It was amazing. Then I had 10 euro spaghetti in Rome just as amazing. Yes, yes, spaghetti in Paris and then Rome, supply and demand, blah, blah, blah--just don't miss the point of the story.

Unfortunately, Paris is not like Barcelona or Rome, where you can wander into most restaurants and get a good meal. In Paris, most restaurants serve disappointing food at a high price. This was the biggest surprise for me the first time I came to Paris. You really need to research and know which restaurant to go to to have a good meal. Unfortunately, the higher end restaurants with higher end prices are the ones that you can randomly choose and have a great meal (but don't just wander in, even at crappy restaurants you need a reservation).

All this being said, there are places in Paris that you can go that are really well priced for the quality of food and drink. I reluctantly share these because I want to keep them for myself, but I hate having a bad food experience so...

FOOD
Le Crèpe Dentelle. 3 courses at lunch plus a glass of cider for about 10.50 euros. Pay a few euros more and you get another course including a kir. My favorite secret.
10, rue Léopold Bellan, 2nd

Pain Vin Fromages
Fondue and Raclette in a homey, wine/cheese cave setting. Call a few days ahead if you have a party of more than 4. Otherwise, same day reservations are fine. They are super busy.
3, Rue Geoffroy-l'Angevin 75004

Sandwich Grec Frites
I don't know what the name of the libanese place is in Place de la Contrescarpe in the 5th just off Mouffetard, but they serve a really great Grec Frites to go. About 5 euros (used to be 3!, but still a bon marché!)

L'Angle du Faubourg
Near Champs-Elysée. 35 euros for lunch, 75 for dinner. The best meal I've had in Paris.
195, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8th

Deliziefollie
Great gelato on a great street. Just grab some to go and walk along Montorgueil.
7, Rue Montorgueil, 1st

Pizza Rustica
Along this same street on the right hand side is amazing pizza and paninis. Apparently they have locations in the states and in France. Go figure. Either way it is gooood. Get a sandwich to go or sit down and enjoy the street view.
36 Rue Montorgueil, 1st

Picnic!
Short on euros? If you visit in warmer months, do as the Parisians--buy wine, cheese, charcuterie and sit along the banks of the river or head to Pont Neuf or Pont des Arts (go early to get a spot on this wooden bridge) and chill there 'til the effiel tower lights up.

DRINK
Le Baron Rouge
A great, proper wine bar in the 12th. Casual, bring friends. Glasses of wine start at about 2 euros. Fantastic.
1, Rue Théophile Roussel, 12th

Pub St. Germain
(M: Odeon). Happy Hour from 6-8 every day with 5.50 euro drinks. Try the Mojito in Love. Don't let the pub in the name fool you. You'll feel a bit posh at this 3 level bar so dress up or the hostess may not seat you!
17, Rue Ancienne Comédie, 6th

Gelato & the Priest Choker

Sounds like a good name for a short story.

I spent last week in Rome. Highlights were: eating spaghetti at every meal (my favorite), discovering fresh, handrolled Strozzapreti (a pasta whose name translates to "the priest choker"), eating the best pizza I have ever had and the bonus of eating gelato at least once a day (maybe twice).

Gelato near Campo de' Fiori




From what I have heard, gelato prices have gone up dramatically. As of last week, the price was about 2 euros for a small. Totally worth it and very cheap compared to Paris prices but expensive given the number of gelaterias in Rome. The best tasting gelato can be found at San Crispino, note though that it was the most expensive of all the gelaterias we went to. However, if you can't make it there, there are countless other gelaterias to try.

Tea at Ladurée

I've been to both Ladurée and Angelina's, two of the largest and well-known tea salons in Paris, for both tea and lunch and must say that Ladurée is far superior to Angelina's in terms of quality of goods and service. Note: Pierre Hermes has the best macarons, so order a plated dessert instead at either of these salons.

Last week, I took my parents there for tea and dessert. Both desserts were de-lish.

Le Elysée


Pommes Caramelisée




I believe there are 5 Ladurée locations in Paris and at least one in Geneve along the lake. When you go, try the salmon club sandwich served with pont neuf frites. It's a pretty penny but totally worth it.

Club sandwich

yum!